Eclipse Cycling Jacket

An ergonomic, sleek hardshell jacket featuring sleeve articulation and an innovative key-lock system, designed for functionality and a modern aesthetic.

FIDLOCK Bike Lock Key Removal Feature

Equipped with an innovative FIDLOCK system, this jacket enables quick and effortless access to your bike lock key, ensuring convenience during commutes or cycling adventures.

The magnetic system allows the removal, use, and reapplication in a matter of seconds.

Articulated Sleeves for Enhanced Mobility

Designed with ergonomically articulated sleeves, the jacket allows for a full range of motion, making it perfect for the dynamic movements of cycling.

Fabric for Ultimate Weather Protection

Constructed with premium Gore-Tex fabric, this jacket delivers outstanding waterproofing, wind resistance, and breathability, keeping wearers dry and at ease in any weather.

The choice of this material integrates into the jacket’s design, making it equally suited for a 50-mile bike ride or a quick stroll to the convenience store in the rain.

Waterproofed Seam-Taped Construction

Each seam is expertly taped to provide a fully waterproof construction, preventing water intrusion during heavy downpours.

This taping also enhances functionality, eliminating bulky seam allowances that could hinder movement, making it ideal for cycling.

Helmet-Compatible Hood Design

The hood is thoughtfully designed to fit perfectly over a cycling helmet, offering protection against rain and wind.

Its adjustable cinch allows for a secure fit around the helmet or, when worn casually without one, can be tightened to shield against the elements with ease.

The Problem:

Need for a cycling jacket that combines everyday style with performance.

Desire for a jacket-integrated solution to simplify bike locking and key access.

When searching for a jacket suited for cycling, I encountered two significant challenges that shaped the design process.

First, as a commuter, I wanted something versatile. Most cycling jackets feature overly bright, explosive aesthetics that feel out of place for everyday wear. I needed a design that could transition seamlessly from bike rides to a casual sleek look, offering more utility and style without sacrificing performance.

Second, locking up my bike was always a hassle. The process of taking off my backpack, unzipping pockets, rummaging for keys, and ensuring my backpack didn’t fall or get wet was frustrating and inefficient. I knew there had to be a smarter way to do this, and I saw an opportunity to integrate a solution directly into the jacket’s design.

Criteria:

Develop a weather-resistant cycling jacket optimized for urban commuters, addressing three core challenges:

Simple Donning/Doffing: for transitions between biking and classroom environments

Ergonomic articulation & fit: supporting forward-leaning cycling posture while allowing mid-layer insulation

Integrated key retention system: enabling immediate access to bike lock key

Research:

Motion Studies:

I began the design process by hopping on my bike and analyzing the shortcomings of my current jacket during a ride.

I noticed that the sleeves often fell short when my arms were fully extended, leaving my wrists exposed, and the rear failed to drop low enough to provide adequate coverage for my back and seat. These observations highlighted key functions, inspiring me to prioritize these features in the jacket’s design to better meet the needs of cyclists.

Ideation:

With insights from my motion studies and an analysis of existing cycling jackets, I began sketching out the features that would address the challenges I uncovered and elevate the design.

I envisioned an articulated sleeve to accommodate the natural bend of the arms while riding, paired with extra-long sleeves to ensure full coverage when reaching for handlebars. A helmet-compatible hood was essential for added protection, while a key pocket on the chest offered an ergonomic solution to the frustration of digging through a backpack. To enhance fit and layering potential, I incorporated darts on the chest to allow room for a sweatshirt underneath, along with a cinchable hem for adjustability and wind protection.

But functionality alone wasn’t enough, I wanted this jacket to be as versatile as it was practical. The aesthetic needed to be sleek and casual, blending into everyday life without screaming “cycling gear.” My goal was to create a piece that worked just as well on a bike as it did at a grocery store or casual outing, offering both performance and utility in equal measure.

Inspection:

Next, I carefully inspected a jacket sent to me for construction, diving into every detail to better understand the craftsmanship behind a waterproof hard shell.

My mentor, Eric Noll, a designer at Patagonia, provided guidance, sharing materials and insights into building durable and functional waterproof garments. He also introduced me to some of the patterns he developed for articulated sleeves, which helped me grasp how to design for movement without compromising fit or performance.

Thoroughly examining the jacket allowed me to study its construction techniques, like seam taping to patterning, and gave me a clearer vision of how to approach my own design. This hands-on inspection proved crucial in refining both the patterning and assembly of my garment, making sure it met the high standards required for cycling and everyday use.

Testing and Prototyping:

The goal of testing and prototyping was to meet all of the requirements from the ideation, as well as the problem statement and deliver a quality, well fitting garment to perform the task at hand.

Test Garment #1

Approached with a "make as fast as possible" mentality to get initial measurements and fit correct.
Didn't add any of the additional features such as the cinch and pockets.
First garment, modeling using CLO

Test Garment #1 - Evaluation

Bodice:

Change the shape of the CF seam to account for the chin
- Add 2" from about 4" down of top collar to make this change.
Add paneled shoulders for better fit
Add 3" of length to the front, don't change back

Sleeves:

Add some more articulation to sleeve curve
Add 1.5" to the length of sleeves
Sleeve tapers well, add 1.5" of width to elbow area.
Don't change armcye

Hood:

Make slightly wider by 1"
Make slightly taller by 1"
Accomodate for changes made to bodice collar length

Other:

Add notches to side panels
Add notches to sleeve
Add notches to sleeve cap and double check they are the same length (sleeve cap and arm hole)

Test Garment #2

Made all of the changes in CLO, primarily changes in measurements
Didn't add the other features like pockets, and cinches because I wasn't confident in the fit yet.

Test Garment #2 - Evaluation

Bodice:

Successful changes that led to a better fit
Finish whole assembly for test garment #3

Sleeves:

Still needs some work with the fit
Add width to the bicep, add 2" in width
Add 2" in armhole and sleeve cap for extra movement

Hood:

Successful changes that led to a better fit
Finish whole assembly for test garment #3

Other:

Fix notches on sleeve cap, they are in the wrong direction in the CLO model.

Test Garment #3

Added final components such as the pockets, FIDLOCK bike key system, and cinching.
Tested out ergonomics of key system by using a sharpie and the natural movement of my arm.

Test Garment #3 - Evaluation

Bodice:

Move pocket over to the side seam, as close to the edge as possible.

Sleeves:

No Changes, fits perfect!

Hood:

Change design to accommodate for seam taping instead of lining entire hood. This will reduce the bulkiness

Other:

Prep for Seam Taping

TEST GARMENTS COMPLETE - ONTO THE FINAL

TEST GARMENTS COMPLETE - ONTO THE FINAL

Final Construction:

The main challenge for this final construction is learning how to seam tape and glue things like facings and some of the components in the hood. I experimented with laser cutting fabrics for the cinching, and field tested the final construction.

Cutting Out Fabric

Laser Cutting Cinch Holes for Hood and Hem

First time work with seam tape, was a challenge! However, made the end product much better.

Project Conclusion

This project was a demonstration of vigorous fit testing and not settling for a sub-par project. Through three test fit garments and a vision for a hard shell jacket that I can wear while biking, I was able to create a successful garment.

Once again, huge shout out to Eric Noll for helping me out with this project, his expertise and providing materials is the reason I was able to create this jacket.

This design solution meets all of the requirements listed in the problem statement, with an easy taking off and putting on of the jacket, ergonomic fit through many test garments, and an easy key retention system through FIDLOCK magnetic systems.

This project helped me master skills in problem solving, CLO patterning, outerwear patterning, seam taping, constructing a pattern for seam taping, and finishing a project through. This jacket was made in the span of a month and a half.

This project, however, is far from finished. If I could revisit the design, I’d refine details like the sleeve width and the bodice length to improve fit and functionality. As I continue to wear and test the garment, I’m certain new opportunities for adjustments and enhancements will reveal themselves. Design is an ever-evolving process, each iteration builds on the life of the garment and the endless stream of ideas sparked by experience and creativity.

Thank you for viewing.

Website Designed by Ted Bailey

Built in Framer

Ted Bailey

Apparel Designer

Minneapolis, MN