The Intersection of Modern Technology and Handmade Craftmanship
Design and Product Development
2025 Fashion Scholarship Fund Case Study
A/W 25/26 Men’s Wear
“The Bright Freeze’ is a collection that goes beyond apparel, it is a collection that leans on the inspiration of the ethereal tranquility found while adventuring and spending time to be grateful for the beauty that is around you.
Executive Summary
Conceptually, The North Face’s collection “The Bright Freeze” takes inspiration from the profound moments of reflection and presence experienced at the summit, or culmination, of an outdoor adventure. This collection captures the essence of peace and relaxation, as the reward one feels with achieving a goal.
The collection draws inspiration from historic trims and patterns while also looking to the future to see what textiles can do for sustainability. It focuses on a mix between technological advancements and hand-made craftsmanship and heritage that defines The North Face’s brand. The North Face has always been making clothing accessories with bold hues, this is a trend that is anticipated in A/W 25/26 and is heavily explored in the collection. While these new advances are exciting, we want to remain firmly rooted in what The North Face is all about, never stop exploring.
Waste reduction is a key focus of this collection, which emphasizes sustainability through recycled materials and digital product development.
From a product development perspective, the goal was to incorporate AI creatively. One underutilized approach is an AI-powered assistant specifically for apparel product development. Using Retrieval-Augmented Generation (RAG) technology, OpenAI’s ChatGPT combined with apparel development documents and expertise, creates a tool called GarmentGuide. GarmentGuide assists technical designers by answering questions related to garment measurements and software such as Clo3D, enhancing efficiency and accuracy in the development process. This tool was used in the creation of this collection.
Technology Trends & Advancements
Materials
Sustainability is in the forefront of technological advancements in the apparel and soft good industry. It’s important to look at these developments to create innovative products for the future to distinguish from competitors.
Bio-based thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) has made huge leaps. We are now creating plastics that dispose with zero microplastics1.
The North Face’s vast library in textile advancements includes CIRCALOFT, a material focused on circular design2.
Garment recycled polyester fabric technology is growing and becoming more efficient and mainstream. Many of the new textiles being developed have some recycled polyester used3.
Pictured Above is Align Textile’s recycled Polyester Fabric, made from sea-wool and garment recycled polyesters.
Waste Reduction
Creating sustainable clothing goes hand in hand with how the product is disposed of.
Using recycled fabrics reduces waste by diverting clothing from landfills and reusing them. This technology is constantly advancing.
Clo3D’s Pattern Nesting software creates the most efficient way to nest patterns and reduce waste when cutting out pattern pieces from fabrics5.
Clo3D’s digital fit testing and stress testing allow for fewer sample garments to be made. Patterning digitally allows for reduced paper waste in production.
Researches at CLO Virtual Fashion are developing ways to nest patterns with max efficiency and reduce waste5.
Artificial Intellegence
Artificial Intelligence has taken many industries by storm. This technology hasn't been fully explored in the apparel industry.
AI is an expert at taking vast amounts of data and condensing it into easily digestible information. This is great for trend research, and sentiment analysis from consumers. Using this technology can help us find what consumers truly want.
AI can also serve as assistants to employees throughout the product development process (as presented later in this project).
With AI becoming more advanced, the human side of product development must shine through. There will be more of an emphasis on story telling.
Image generated with DALLE 3 by OpenAI
Craft Trends
Bold Earth Tones
Earth tones are an important color trend of A/W 25/26.
Using cool colors like green and blue as well, as some of the rusty colors seen in nature such as a vibrant red or orange, are keys to this season’s color forecast9.
Outside of the colors themselves, natural motifs and patterns are of importance this season.
Using natural dyes is also a way these colors can be achieved and brings across and sustainable message clearly7.
Bold earth tones
Playful Minimalism
Adding spots of play and detail are key to some of the fabrics used in this season.
One of the ways this can be used it by utilizing textile waste from previous collections and adding them into the garments in creative ways.
Minimalism taps into a contemporary consumer base, while adding a sense of joy, while conveying utility and longevity.
Unusual placement of branding, patchwork, textile patterns, and conveying seasonal messaging are some of the ways this can be achieved8.
Image sourced from WGSN article cited #8, credited to Jack Sharples
Tactile
Tactile fabrics are an important upcoming trend. Fiber choice is important to achieving this trend, seeking use of natural or sustainable regenerative fabrics.
Fabrics with artisan details (such as embroidery, quilting, and puckering) to reflect nature are a major point of emphasis.
Using natural fibers and yarns are important in this theme and to consumers.
From WGSN Article cited #6, by Bharat Silks - http://www.bharatsilks.com/
Impact
This collection aims to synthesize all of these trends to create sustainable clothing that aligns with The North Face as a brand and their history. By combining all of the technological trends, we can create innovative clothing that pays homage to artisan craftmanship whilst meeting all of the consumers need.
This collection will integrate cutting edge technology using recycled fabrics and AI optimized designing, while also looking toward traditional techniques like tactile textiles, and hand-stitching. The convergence of the two will create environmentally sustainable pieces, but also aesthetically compelling pieces embodying the spirit of innovation that defines The North Face.
Scale of rectangles reflects the emphasis in the collection.
Conceptual Direction
GarmentGuide AI Chatbot
Harnessing the power of AI in the apparel industry is a huge opportunity for growth and employee productivity.
AI is great at taking large amounts of data and giving us easy to digest information from this data, we can use this as an advantage in the apparel development process.
With the power of combining OpenAI’s ChatGPT and information particular to apparel product development we can use it to answer various questions along the product development cycle. This process is called RAG (Retrieval-Augmented Generation).
GarmentGuide Can:
Answer questions on how to use a certain software like CLO3D and give step-by-step tutorials in seconds, eliminating the long google searches or video tutorials on how to use something.
Gather large amounts of consumer feedback and consolidate the feedback to influence changes in the next development cycle.
Give us step-by-step tutorials on how to draft a pattern for any garment.
Answer common questions such as “What is the ISO stitch number for a basic lockstitch?” in an instant.
Generate measurements for pattern grading.
Waste Reduction
As we look to the future of sustainable fashion, reducing waste is at the core of this process.
This collection focuses on waste reduction in the form of using recycled textiles.
BYBORRE® is a textile manufacturing company found in Amsterdam. They are a company focused on textile innovation through sustainability and waste reduction. This is accomplished by having their own textile design tool on their website for clear communication between designer and manufacture (less samples and MOQ). They invest a lot of time to find the origin of materials and having one fiber materials for recyclability. Their design tool was used in this collection15.
Circaloft™ is a textile developed by The North Face. This fabric is made out of 100% recycled polyester and non-PFC durable water-repellent finish. The fabric is lightweight and packable7.
Clo3D fit testing and pattern nesting reduces waste. Less samples need to be made and efficient pattern nesting allows for less offcuts.
BYBORRE Scarf
GarmentGuide RAG LLM
Basic LLM vs. RAG LLM
GarmentGuide uses the power of RAG to generate accurate responses for product development.
LLM stands for Large Language Model, this is what AI’s such as ChatGPT and Llamma 3 are classified as.
RAG stands for Retrieval-Augmented Generation, this is a system that combines the capabilities of generative AI (ChatGPT) and external knowledge. The prompt used calls on the documents provided and searches for relevant information to combine with the Basic LLM to generate a more informative accurate response11,12.
In Simple Terms:
Basic LLM (ChatGPT):
Generates Reponses on pre-trained data
Relies on training data for all knowledge
RAG LLM (GarmentGuide):
Combines an LLM with a real-time retrieval system
Can access and integrate up-to-date external information13
Why Use RAG LLMs Over Basic LLMs?
RAG LLMs are more effective in special use cases, in this case it’s apparel product development, so I designed and trained GarmentGuide for this use case. Here are some of the advantages in investing in RAG LLMs
Improved Accuracy and Reliability:
Reduced Hallucinations14
Up-to-date information
Excels in specialized knowledge
Competitive Advantage:
RAG LLMs can be trained locally to provide better, more digestible responses. While this process takes time, effective training can lead to highly useful and time-saving results.
This is done locally, so no one else can have the advantage your brand has.
Enhanced Trust and Accuracy:
Source Attribution - When documents are accessed, they are cited in response
Allows users to cross check with cited document to ensure accuracy
Image generated by Adobe Firefly AI
GarmentGuide RAG LLM - How It Has Been Used
Throughout the development of the garments in this collection, GarmentGuide was used as an effective aide in the product development process. Provided examples were actually used in the development of this collection. Here is what is most effective:
GarmentGuide as a Measurement Advisor
GarmentGuide is great at predicting measurements and giving you a baseline to start at when drafting the pattern to a garment.
Prompt: “Generate a list of graded measurements for an activewear gillet with the provided measurements for a M size. Do this for sizes XS-XXXXL Men's.
Chest: 16.90" - Give me an assumption of all the other graded points necessary to create a line of this gillet for an activewear collection”
GarmentGuide
ChatGPT
GarmentGuide as a Clo3D Instructor
GarmentGuide shines as an instructor for Clo3D, providing exact measurements and what tools to use to perform certain actions.
Here is an example:
Prompt: “Can you tell me how to create a pants pattern in Clo3D?”
GarmentGuide Snippet:
Creating the Front and Back Panels
Pattern Tool: Select the Polygon Tool from the 2D Pattern Toolbar.
Draft Front Panel:
Measurements: For a standard size, use the following approximate measurements (adjust according to your specific needs):
Waist Width: 9 inches (quarter of the total waist measurement plus ease).
Hip Width: 11.5 inches (quarter of the total hip measurement plus ease).
Length: 42 inches.
Draw a rectangle and adjust the following points:
Waist to Hip: Measure down 9 inches from the waistline for the hip line.
Crotch Depth: Measure down 12 inches from the waistline for the crotch depth.
Use the Edit Curve Point Tool to shape the crotch curve and the waistline.
ChatGPT Snippet:
Draw the Basic Pants Pattern
Select the Polygon Tool from the toolbar and start drawing the front and back panels of the pants. Ensure you take accurate measurements or use a reference pattern for accuracy. Typically, you will need to draw:
Front panel
Back panel
Waistband
Pockets (optional)
As you can see, GarmentGuide provides a more in depth step-by-step process with measurements, compared with just ChatGPT.
Both are just snippets in responses, GarmentGuide continues these steps with the back panel, waistband etc. ChatGPT tells you what to do without substance or measurements.
Concept Board
Conceptually, The North Face’s collection “The Bright Freeze” takes inspiration from the profound moments of reflection and presence experienced at the summit or culmination of an outdoor adventure. This collection captures the essence of peace and relaxation, and the sense of reward one feels with achieving a goal.
Many images in the board show a moment where you can look into the distance and be proud of yourself and what you have accomplished. Nature is a place where we can do this effortlessly, whether its the park pictured in the bottom left or the top of a mountain.
Design Process
Color and Fabric
BYBORRE® 3D Knit
100% Cotton
275 GSM
BYBORRE’s 3D Knit cotton fabric is perfect for cozy garments like sweatshirts, sweatpants, and long sleeves. Its soft, breathable texture ensures comfort while matching the tactile, bold nature tones set to trend in A/W 25/26.
The vibrant orange hue captures the warmth and satisfaction of completing a hike, radiating the joy and energy felt during an outdoor adventure.
Additionally, BYBORRE’s 3D knitting technique is sustainable, significantly reducing waste by creating garments with precision and minimal excess.
TENCEL™ Twill
100% Tencel
300 GSM
Durable because of the twill construction and sustainable because of Tencel fiber content.
Matches bold nature tones of AW 25/26
Will use garment dye for collection to reduce water usage in dyeing process.
Natural madder dye for bold orange color.
Circaloft™
100% Recycled Polyester
200 GSM
Circaloft™ is lightweight and packable, perfect for adventures and exploring.
The chosen color was meant to match the craft trend of bold nature and reflect elements of the environment, such as water and the sky. This bold blue has been a staple for The North Face throughout history and reflects the brand's heritage
Fabric is made out of recycled polyester and recycled fill for sustainability.
Fabric Features a PFC-free DWR finish.
TENCEL™ Activewear
70% Tencel Lyocell - 25% Organic Cotton - 5% Elastane
250 GSM
The use of Tencel known for its eco-friendly production and minimal environmental impact makes it sustainable. The blend is perfect for activewear, offering excellent moisture-wicking properties and breathability to keep you comfortable with the combination of Tencel, cotton, and elastane.
5% elastane allow for more ease of movement.
Blue color meets the craft trend of bold nature tones.
Ripstop
100% Recycled Polyester
300 GSM
Ripstop fabric was made for durability and longevity, ensuring that garments can withstand the test of time. This particular ripstop is crafted from recycled polyester made from plastic bottles and scrap metals, making it a sustainable choice.
Ripstop’s tactile grid pattern aligns perfectly with the tactile craft trends for A/W 25/26.
Features a PFC-free DWR finish.
Polyester
100% Recycled Polyester
210 GSM
Plain weave construction for versatility in collection.
Lightweight fabric for athletic wear and comfort.
Fabric is made out of recycled polyester for sustainability.
Print and Pattern
BYBORRE® 3D Knit
Branches
For Look 1 Sweatshirt
BYBORRE® 3D Knit
Bark
For Look 1 Bottoms
BYBORRE® 3D Knit
Clouds
For look 3 Long Sleeve
Flats
Clo Renders
Technical Flats
Conclusion
Allowing AI to be a part of the development and research of a product can be helpful. But implementing industry specific RAG LLMs can allow for more accurate responses with less hallucination. It can answer the questions asked by employees throughout the day in an instant in a quick easily digestible format. For this project it was valuable in grading patterns, small details needed on garments, specific measurements, summarization, as well as any questions related to Clo3D. The opportunities are endless for different brands to implement this technology, such as trend research, sentiment analysis, and ideation.
This collection is a success in terms of reducing waste. It's more crucial than ever for designers to consider this in every project they work on. With technology advancing, it's important to use it in a way to reduce the carbon footprint. By investing in recycled fabrics and learning more about how to create a circular economy, success can be achieved. In this collection, BYBORRE’s textiles, Circaloft®, TENCEL™, and other recycled fabrics were used. Garments were created with one fiber and fewer trims for easier recyclability. Using Clo3D for patterning and fit testing reduces the quantity of sample garments. By being conscious of the development of products diverting fabric from landfills and using them in collections we can reduce fabric waste.
This collection resides in the reflection of the now, and in the future of the North Face which is a blend of heritage and technological advancements. By implementing bold classic hues, strategic logo placements, sustainable practices, innovative fabrics, and drawing inspiration from archival garments, I have created a collection that looks toward the future while honoring The North Face's ethos of never stopping exploring.
Sources
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CLO Virtual Fashion. (2024, May 1). On the Cutting Edge: Reducing Fabric Waste with CLO's Innovative Research. CLO Virtual Fashion Blog. https://clovirtualfashion.blog/2024/05/01/on-the-cutting-edge-reducing-fabric-waste-with-clos-innovative-research/
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